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Historic and fascinating Windsor

Windsor, England is a fascinating city with a bustling, but not crazily crowded town centre and Windsor Castle crowning the city.

I know it is proper to call England “The UK” or Britain, but I still use England because it is an ancient term and reeks of history.

One of my favorite places in England has alway been Windsor. There, visitors meet a history-infused town with a frosting of quaint shops and pubs.

I have stayed in Windsor several times and was fortunate to discover the Langton House Bed and Breakfast early on. Now, after my fifth stay at the establishment, I am more enamored of it than ever.

Rick Steves has also discovered this jewel in the crown of Windsor and mentions it in his Great Britain guide.

Run by Paul and Sonja Fogg, the Langton House has a four-star rating from the English Tourism Council (ETC). Located on a quiet, leafy street the establishment has four rooms with private baths, comfortable beds and large armoires.

An upstairs lounge area offers tea, biscuits and sometimes goodies from Paul’s kitchen.

Paul prepares a sumptuous breakfast of ham, sausage, eggs, beans, broiled tomato and a crispy English breakfast dish, “fried bread.” Grapefruit sections and other fruits are available on a sideboard.

Paul’s parents bought the house in 1979 and over the years it evolved into a bed and breakfast. Paul grew up there and took over the establishment when his parents announced their retirement in 1998.

He recently discovered that the house was built in 1881 when a potential guest called and told him that her grandmother was born in the Alma Road house in that year. Prior to that call, Paul had believed the house was built in 1890. The two-story house was erected as a residence for Queen Victoria’s minor government officials.

From the Langton House it is a ten-minute walk to the town centre. Taxicabs are handy to return you to the B&B in case of a sudden deluge, and I use Five Star Cars of Windsor. The drivers are courteous and reliable.

Windsor Castle is the massive stone focal point of the city and is still an official residence of Queen Elizabeth. However, there is much more to Windsor and other points of interest, including the Changing of the Guard, Royal Ascot Racecourse and the Frogmore House, which has been the country home for various monarchs since the seventeenth century.

The French Brothers operate boats on the Thames which take a slow journey past the castle, river cottages and other delightful sights.

Paul Fogg has developed a walking tour from the Langton House that takes you through the cobble-stoned paths of Windsor. One of the sights just up the road from Langton is Trinity Church, built in 1842 by Queen Victoria. A curious sight is the Market Cross House, also called “The Crooked House of Windsor,” due to its seemingly precarious leaning position. This leaning tower of Windsor was built in 1634 and has led many lives, including that of a butcher house. It is now a quaint tearoom. Guild Hall, completed in 1687 by Sir Christopher Wren, is next to Market Cross House and was the site of the 2005 ceremony uniting Prince Charles with Camilla Parker Bowles.

Windsor Castle has been home to England’s Sovereigns for more than 900 years and is the largest inhabited castle in the world. Spanning several city blocks, this stone fortress is a commanding presence. The rooms are lavishly adorned with sparkling chandeliers and gleaming golden candelabras. Silk seems to be quite prevalent in the castle, and is used in wall-coverings, beds and even settees.

Queen Mary’s Doll House is an amazing work of art. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1924, some of the accoutrements, including lights and the water system, are in working order. The décor is lavish with tiny chandeliers, marble floors, porcelain bathtubs and carved wood fireplaces. Miniature suits of armor guard the halls. I wished I could, for a few moments at least, shrink like Alice then wander the marble floors and marvel at the silk draped beds.

Saint George’s Chapel, on the castle grounds, was built by Edward IV in 1475. It is more of a cathedral than a chapel, with sweeping gilt ceilings, walls of stained glass windows and intricately carved choir stalls. Many Sovereigns lie at rest in the chapel, including Queen Elizabeth’s parents: Queen Elizabeth – The Queen Mother, and King George VI.

A wonderful lunching spot complete with its original dark paneling and fireplace is the Drury House, which serves traditional English “fayre.” Located near the castle at 4 Church Street, the structure was built in 1645 to accomodate staff from Windsor Castle, but became the home of Nell Gwyn, King Charles II’s mistress. A tunnel, now blocked off, runs between the house and the castle. The Drury House has been a restaurant for more than 100 years and the food is worthy of a king’s table. For me, the “Lamb Stew with Dumplings” was a hearty warming tonic for a rather cool July afternoon. While sipping my Earl Grey Tea I marveled at the architectural details preserved in this house full of history.

Back to my room in the welcoming atmosphere of the Langton House, I sat at the window, peered out the curtains and watched Windsor’s world. The stone church across the street practically boasted of its medieval traceries framing stained glass windows and told a tale of its solid oak doors with heavy black iron hinges. Even in my cozy room at the Langton House, England’s history finds me.

A breeze carried the scent of leaves and recent rain to my second story window. The lichen-and moss-covered roof of the church was a familiar sight. It was good to be back in fragrant, fascinating Windsor.

Langton House

Bed & Breakfast

46 Alma Road

Windsor

http://www.langtonhouse.co.uk

Windsor Tourism

http://www.windsor.gov.uk

 

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