Apple scents are in the air

This time of year, the fragrance of apples wafts in and out of historic shops in Julian. Want to experience it for yourself? Julian is about 65 miles from Fallbrook, but once you get out of Escondido, on SR-78, the trip through the windy roads and countryside is a pleasant way to spend a fall day.

Julian during the fall boasts stores that offer the town’s most prized commodity – apples.

In one shop, visitors can watch apples being stuffed with cinnamon in preparation for baking. Apples in other forms can also be found: candied apples, caramel apples and the most famous of them all – the apple pie. Even though Julian apple pies can be purchased at markets in Fallbrook, it’s still fun to get them at the source.

Julian is still San Diego County but feels more like a town out of the Old West. The boardwalks leading to the historic buildings are a bit creaky and the buildings themselves have peeling paint, but that is part of the charm.

Since at least 1870 Julian has been a town of some significance. A plaque tells of “The Eagle Gold Mine, located April 5, 1870, (39 Chains Due East), by William J. Moran.” It doesn’t say how much gold this Mr. Moran discovered or what strange form of measurement a “chain” is, but it does pique one’s interest. I found out later that a man named Fred Coleman discovered gold in a local creek bed, a year earlier, in 1869.

My friend Jim and I visited Julian to celebrate his birthday with lunch at the Julian Grille, a historic house that is now living out its days as a café. We sat on what was formerly the front porch but is now an enclosed room with antiques, lace curtains and a view of the jasmine-vined front yard.

We decided on the savory pork ribs, which were messy, but we both ordered them as to not embarrass the other. It worked – we both had barbeque sauce splattered on our faces and neither of us cared!

A “Corn and Crab Chowder,” served with the ribs, was a rich, exceptional melange of crab, corn and carrots.

For a special birthday dessert our Julian Grille server brought out a crystal glass heaped with lemon sorbet and topped with whipped crème and a glowing candle which I made Jim blow out before we proceeded any further. This lemon dessert was “in a class of its own,” Jim commented.

We discussed sorbet in general and determined what it wasn’t. Not ice cream, not gelato, and icier than sherbet – whatever it was, Jim and I concluded that it was perfect for a warm day in Julian! Even this late in the year, the town, which sits at 4,450 feet, was in the eighties.

A trip to Julian wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the Julian Cider Mill, where they sell fresh apple cider, homemade candies, jams, jellies and other sweet treats.

Jim and I visited this same store 30 years ago as young students on spring break. Not much had changed – well, let me clarify that statement: not much in the STORE had changed.

We laughed about the oversized jawbreakers and admired the smooth candy pebbles that look like river rocks. If you love cinnamon, like I do, their delicious candy called “Cinnamon Things” is for you.

The Julian Cider Mill is a comforting establishment, whether you are there to take a trip down memory lane or are a first-time visitor.

The road home from Julian (SR-78) wanders though Santa Ysabel, a quiet place with wide golden fields leading to distant oak-studded hills.

In Santa Ysabel, the lure of fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies always draws me to Dudley’s Bakery, famous for their homemade breads, cookies and pastries. The clerk at the counter looked at my face and said, “You have the Dudley’s smile!” She proceeded to tell me that she loves her job because everyone who comes into the store has a smile on his or her face.

I hadn’t the heart to tell her that my smile was partially a “Dudley’s Smile” but was mostly the result of a carefree day in Julian, where Jim and I ate messy ribs in a lacy café, then strolled along the streets, poking about the quaint shops.

Does Julian really smell like apples? Come up and see for yourself!

Julian Apple Days Festival

October 6 & 7

Entertainment, games, food

Call (760) 765-4758 for information