A day in Capistrano

Mexican food, folk art and a 130-year-old mission

A perfect short-distance day adventure is a drive up to Mission San Juan Capistrano in Orange County. It is a relaxing trip along the coast, especially when the sun is sparkling on the sea. Roll down a window or two and inhale the fresh westerly breezes.

For a fascinating lunch detour try Olamendi’s Mexican restaurant at 34660 Pacific Coast Highway in Dana Point. Jorge Olamendi established the restaurant in 1974 and it is still family owned. Mainly, he uses family recipes from Mexico. He and his family not only share their recipes but their culture as well.

Situated across from the ocean, you will find this eclectic establishment is no ordinary restaurant. It seems as if every inch of space, including the ceiling, is filled with various types of folk art – religious statues, Christmas decorations and El Día de los Muertos (The Day of the Dead) figures. Photographs and memorabilia of celebrity visitors tightly line the restaurant like wallpaper.

The interior is unlike anything I have ever seen with star-shaped piñatas and colorful blown glass globes dangling from the ceiling. A walk to the back dining room reveals more art pieces. For a good dose of Mexican folk art the establishment can’t be beat.

Olamendi’s became a frequent haunt for former President Richard Nixon and his wife Pat, as evidenced by signed photographs adorning the walls. There is even a round table painted with a modified presidential seal and the words “Richard M. Nixon.” The table is popular and seems to always be occupied.

Savor some colorful and flavorful food while enjoying the unique décor with a ‘fiesta’ feel. For starters, the bright red salsa and vibrant green guacamole is good with the hot homemade chips. I also recommend the Chile de Camarón, which is a chile rellano with shrimp and sour cream. The golden Pork Chimichanga is slathered with sour cream and is also an excellent choice.

Further on, in the town of San Juan Capistrano, the Los Rios Historic District is worth a stop. Located on Los Rios Street, the small avenue is picturesque with overhanging vines and several varieties of cacti lining the road. Historic cottages and adobes, some of which have been converted to tearooms and shops, are the focal point of the area. A rusty jail cell is also a curiosity.

Mission San Juan Capistrano was founded by Father Junipero Serra in 1776 and is the site of the famous return of the swallows. Every year around March 19 the swallows fly back to the mission. Their return is marked by an event which coincides with the Feast of St. Joseph. Although in recent years not as many birds have flown back, it is still a worthwhile event. This year’s Swallows Celebration will be held on March 19 from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and will include a pageant, dances and vendors.

The mission is extensive and includes a chapel adorned with a gilt baroque altarpiece. Unfortunately, the chapel is now undergoing renovation. An audio tour is included in the admission price, which further draws the visitor into the aura of the mission’s past glory.

The plazas exude the perfume of rosebushes and other flowers that bloom, even in January. Several moss-covered fountains punctuate the courtyards. An interesting museum includes information about the Juaneño people of the area. A courtyard excavation in the 1930s unearthed tallow vats where the Juaneño people made soap, candles and ointments from animal fat. Robes and gilt vestments of the Spanish padres are also on display.

The Great Stone Church, which was struck down by an earthquake in 1812, is now a monumental ruin with only the massive walls remaining. A small courtyard on the other side of the church is called the Sacred Garden. Ravens and smaller birds swoop down to drink from a fountain in the center. Red bougainvillea meander up the courtyard walls. A Bell Wall towers over the courtyard. The mission is a fragrant and peaceful haven in the midst of bustling Orange County.