Makes me 'wannabe' a Southern chef!

Truth time: I never wanted to learn about Southern cooking.

Well, what I mean is I didn’t want to learn about it as much as French, Italian and other sorts.

That is until quite recently as a combination of events came together.

First, I’ve found much of my family in the South… and when they talk about food, it sounds

s-o-o-o GOOD!

Secondly, I was tempted and succumbed to “The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook” by Matt Lee and Ted Lee (published by W.W. Norton & Company).

If this doesn’t make a person one want to run to the kitchen and cook “Southern-style,” I’m not sure if: 1) they are alive, and 2) anything would inspire them to do anything.

The photos by Gentl & Hyers are works of art in and of themselves.

However, what turned me into a “wannabe” are the stories by the Lee brothers. They pluck at your heartstrings and share lore that only true Southerners probably know: how real smoked ham should be, the secrets to Southern-fried chicken… and even barbecue recipes.

On barbecue recipes, I was once told you had to marry into a family before they shared those treasures.

This is a cookbook to read first, cogitate and then just jump in.

I would try the recipes first before inviting company over, unless you know someone who ’fesses up to desiring “wannabe” Southern cooking status, too.

I trust you will find that person, as two people learning together are more effective than one.

Have fun, y’all!

From the book, here is a recipe for Cheese Straws. It used to be a standard in fine home entertaining. Perhaps you will make them a hallmark of your home.

Lee Bros. Cheese Straws

1 ½ cups (about 4 oz.) grated extra-sharp Cheddar cheese

4 tbsp. (½ stick) unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 pieces

¾ cup flour

½ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

1 tbsp. half-and-half

Extra flour for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a food processor, combine the cheese, flour, salt and red pepper flakes and process in five 5-second pulses until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add the half-and-half and process until the dough forms a ball, about 10 seconds.

3. On a lightly floured surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into an 8x10-inch rectangle that is 1/8-inch thick. With a sharp knife, cut the dough into long thin strips, ¼ to 1/3 inches wide (dipping the knife in flour after every few inches ensures a clean cut). Gently transfer the strips to an ungreased cookie sheet, leaving at least ¼ inch between them. The dough will sag and may break occasionally in the transfer, but don’t be concerned…just do your best. The straws can be any length, from 2 to 10 inches.

4. Bake the straws on the middle rack for 12 to 15 minutes in the preheated oven or until the ends are barely browned. Remove from the oven and set the cookie sheet on a rack to cool.

5. Serve at room temperature. Cheese straws will keep in the refrigerator, in a sealed container, for 2 days.

-------------------------------

The “secrets” of Southern-style friend chicken seemed most interesting. This version is brined; it only used legs and thighs and the frying techniques are very precise.

All of this was “news to me” and probably most of the non-Southern world.

Give it a go. You may just sample the best chicken ever put on a Western table.

Lee Bros. Sunday Fried Chicken

1 qt. water

1/3 cup salt

All Purpose Fry Dredge [see below]

3 cups peanut oil, canola oil, clarified butter or lard

3 lb. chicken legs and thighs (about 6 legs and 6 bone-in thighs)

To brine chicken, at least 4 hours before you begin (or the night before) pour water into a 3 qt. bowl, add salt and stir until it dissolves.

Trim any excess fat from the thighs, submerge the legs and thighs in the brine, cover the bowl and refrigerate.

Remove the bowl from the refrigerator 2 hours before frying so that the chicken can come to room temperate.

Take from brine, rinse and pat dry.

1. Preheat oven to 250 degrees.

2. Pour the oil into a 12-inch skillet and heat over medium-high heat until it reaches 325 degrees on a candy thermometer. If using a different-sized skillet or pan, fill with oil (or melt enough lard and clarified butter to a depth of 1/3-inch).

3. Place the fry dredge in a medium bowl or a 1-gallon plastic bag. Dredge the chicken thoroughly, by dipping each piece in the bowl or shaking it in the bag. Shake off any excess dredge. Using tongs, transfer 3 legs and 3 thighs to the skillet, skin side down, and cover. Fry the chicken, checking the temperature of the oil and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain the temperature between 325 and 350 degrees, until the chicken is golden brown, about 6 minutes. Uncover the skillet, turn the chicken pieces with the tongs and fry 6 minutes more, until the chicken is golden brown all over. Turn and fry for 3 minutes, then turn again and fry for 3 minutes more.

4. With tongs, transfer the chicken to a paper-towel-lined plate and place in the oven to warm. Repeat Step 3 with the remaining chicken.

5. When all the chicken is done, serve immediately.

[Editor’s note: perhaps optional for non-Southerners is to pass a cruet of Pepper Vinegar with the chicken.]

Lee Bros. All-Purpose Fry Dredge

½ cup all-purpose flour

3 tbsp. stone-ground cornmeal

2 tsp. salt

1 ½ tsp. fresh ground black pepper

(A sprinkling of breadcrumbs for quick browning, if dredging fish or oysters)

In a medium bowl, sift the flour, cornmeal, salt and pepper together twice. Stir and turn out onto a flat surface. Press fish, green tomatoes, oysters, chicken or clams into the mixture on all sides and shake the excess loose.

Milled grains should be treaded as perishable products, so if you are not using this dredge immediately, transfer it to a quart-sized plastic bag with a zipper lock and store in the freezer no longer than 4 weeks. Remove the dredge 1 hour before using so it can come to room temperature.