Time to wake up rose bushes

Nature lies fallow in winter in preparation for the new year. All life needs rest in order to grow with greater strength. Winter is the time of withdrawal that precedes renewal. But now it’s time to take a few simple steps to wake roses up for a great year.

There is no magical specific date to prune. According to all accounts and professional rosarians, the proper time is “late winter.” This time has many meanings, but the bottom line is to prune late enough that there’s little risk of frost damage to the tender growth that will emerge from pruning. In the Temecula Valley, last average frost date is March 31, so that means it’s probably safe pruning in mid- to late-February.

Of course, it’s always a gamble. The best advice is to watch the weather. Generally speaking a little later is best when there’s been winter rain since the rains are cold and the ground is wetter and colder than usual. This year, even with the rains, the weather hasn’t been severe enough yet to actually prevent new growth on the roses.

I have observed that pruned or not, new growth is appearing. Different parts of the yard may have other conditions. A south facing wall backing the plants will be warmer than a shadier area. The composition of the soil will have differing effects. Whether there is still a generous layer of mulch can affect soil conditions.

If a gardener hasn’t began or finished pruning, don’t fear there is still plenty of time to have blooms for rose shows or special spring events. I would suggest from what I’ve been seeing lately as a result of the rainy periods and warmer than usual weather which has created a great environment for fungi diseases, that gardeners investigate their roses and if they find any rust to remove all the leaves at once and discard them into their green waste bin.

The main reason for the major late-winter pruning is to reset the plants’ biological clock. A wake up call to begin a new life cycle that is like restarting a factory setting.

After this pruning, gardeners can usually expect a flush of blooms 8 to 12 weeks later, depending on the temperatures during that period – the warmer it is, the shorter the time to blooms. But all things being equal, if gardeners prune in the latter half of February they will likely have blooms for 2019 rose shows scheduled in mid- to late-April. If they would like blooms for a specific date, they should count backwards approximately 10 weeks from that date. Pruning should be complete on this date.

The following procedures mostly apply to hybrid teas and floribundas, but they are reasonably serviceable for minis. They are not really applicable to climbers, ground cover roses, trailers, or shrub roses – all those types have their own pruning methods.

In general, it is recommended to have good pruning tools and gloves with arm protectors, long handle loppers and sharp clean “bypass” hand pruners. What does “bypass” mean? Take a look at the pruners. Bypass pruners have a sharp cutting blade which slices through the cane and a dull curved non-cutting blade which holds the cane in place during the cut.

The sharp blade “by passes” or over shoots the dull curved blade. It’s a good idea to have a range of pruner sizes handy. Each size has a limit to the diameter thickness for which it is most efficiently used; using too small a pruner on too large a cane can damage both. At minimum, have a pair of loppers and a standard-sized pair of hand pruners that fit comfortably in a hand. A saw can be handy if there are some older plants with large canes that may need to be removed.

All tools should be kept clean, sharp and in good repair. Rubbing alcohol is ideal for cleaning cutting blades, before and during the job. It also helps prevent transmitting diseases from plant to plant, and use it as first aid for punctures and scratches to the skin. A good pair of leather gloves are necessary with long sleeves or separate pair of sleeves to protect arms.

Before starting the job, lubricate the moving parts with a little light oil, such as 3-in-1 oil, and make sure they operate without resistance. Sharpen each blade with a small diamond file that is available at garden centers, trying as much as possible to match the original bevel of the blade.

Every 100 cuts or so, swipe the file over the blade a few times to keep it sharp. If the pruners are crushing the stems or leaving a tail, it’s past time to sharpen. To minimize damage to the cane keep this rule in mind. The sharp blade should always face the part that will be left. It will minimize the crushing of the cane or stem as it will be the part that is discarded. This rule also works for preparing stems for arranging or putting into a vase.

Now, decide what style of pruning to do, see Figure 1. I find this works well with the way buds are distributed along the cane. Buds are found in the “axil” where a leaf meets the cane; leaves spiral around the cane at about 1.5-inch intervals. It places outward-facing buds about 4-inches apart. Prune lightly to moderately, and if frost damages the tender young growth, then it can still be re-pruned to the next bud down.

In Southern California, rose bushes can grow quite large, so start with some gross pruning to bring the project down to size. I use loppers to cut every bush down to about 3 feet high. It lets gardeners examine the structure of the bush, and to use hand pruners to more easily remove canes that are twiggy, dead, crossing other canes or passing through the center of the plant. Also remove old leaves so the structure of the plant is easy to see. After removing all that stuff from the interior of the bush, do the final pruning. Attempt to leave a domed top to the degree possible so the plant will bush out in a pleasing, balanced manner.

Pruners will make two kinds of cuts. Some cuts remove an entire branch; make these flush with the surface of the parent cane. Other cuts simply shorten a cane. It is important to position the pruners to minimize damage to the plant. Position pruners so the non-cutting blade is in contact with the portion of the cane that will be removed, and the cutting blade is on the side of the cut that will remain on the plant. See Figure 2. It will make more sense while actually holding the pruners and getting ready to cut. Also, always prune above an outward facing bud with an angled cut. See Figure 3.

For shrub roses, cut them back to conform to the space to fill, inspect and clean out dead and diseased material from the center, shorten canes and remove about one third of the growth.

A word of caution when pruning. Look for the small nests of hummingbirds, as it is the nesting period for two varieties in the area. Also, look for praying mantis egg cases on any branches, find a place to put them where they will be undisturbed and hatch out. The offspring are beneficial.

Clean the ground thoroughly of all rose debris and dispose of all cuttings and other materials in the green waste bin and put it on the street. Do not compost it. Apply a dormant spray to the plants and the soil surface to ward off diseases. Then apply 2-4-inches of composted mulch to cover the entire garden area.

The first fertilizing will be when new growth is about 2 inches long. I recommend lower values of the three elements (Nitrogen 3, Phosphate 4, K Potassium 3) with slightly higher value for phosphate. In two weeks begin with heavier feeding every two weeks for great blooms or at least monthly. Now would be the best time to asses the irrigation system for any needed repairs while there is no new growth and mulch has not been spread.

Be sure to visit Rose Haven Heritage Garden, 30592 Jedediah Smith Road in Temecula. The cross street is Cabrillo Avenue. Visit http://www.TemeculaValleyRoseSociety.org.