Also serving the communities of De Luz, Rainbow, Camp Pendleton, Pala and Pauma

It's time to get pruning tools in order

Happy New Year – let's hope this one is an improvement over 2020! This month I'm going to help you get ready for the major late-winter pruning. (I'll provide details on pruning in my February column.)

Check Temeculavalleyrosesociety.com to see if there will be a rose care workshop at Rose Haven Heritage Garden (30592 Jedediah Smith Road in Temecula, just a few blocks north off of Temecula Parkway) in January.

In our area – the corridor from Riverside to San Diego – this major annual pruning should be done sometime between late January and late February. (The San Diego Rose Society aims to be finished Feb. 14). This pruning resets the plants' biological clock, acting as a wake-up call to begin a new life cycle. You can expect the first flush of blooms about 10 weeks after pruning.

As much as you'd like to have blooms as soon as possible, don't jump the gun on this! Some gardeners think pruning in December or early January will give them a head start on flower production, but that's a delusion.

First, even if January brings exceptionally warm air temperatures, the soil will still be quite cold, so the roots (and stems) will not be "revved up" for much active growth – your head start won't amount to much.

More importantly, if early pruning is followed by a hard frost, you'll probably lose the tender young growth and have to prune again. Will the remaining canes be long enough and have enough stored energy for vigorous spring growth? Will you have enough outward-facing buds? Probably not.

Simply stated, pruning too early will set back stem growth and flower production, and can ruin your chances of strong, well-formed plants.

I think you'll be able to hold off after experiencing the recent storms that brought plenty of cold rain, snow and freezing (or near freezing) night-time temperatures to the Temecula Valley.

Next week's weather forecast for the Temecula Valley (and other inland valleys) is for chances of rain in most areas and lows in the mid-30s. In the Temecula Valley, the last average frost date is March 31, so you're probably safe pruning in late January to late February. Of course, it's always a gamble. The best advice is to watch the weather.

But this month get your tools ready! You need a good pair of sharp "bypass" hand pruners that fit comfortably in your hand. "Bypass" pruners have a sharp curved cutting blade (which slices through the cane) and a dull curved non-cutting blade (which holds the cane in place during the cut). The sharp blade "bypasses" or slides over the dull curved blade. This is in contrast to pruners that have a sharp flat blade that comes to rest against a flat dull blade; toss those pruners out!

At minimum, also have at least one pair of sturdy loppers handy. Each pruner size has a maximum diameter it can cut efficiently. Using pruners or loppers that are too small on a too-large cane can damage both the tool and the cane. A hand saw with a narrow blade can also be handy if you have some older plants with large canes that may need to be removed. A "keyhole" saw works well for this.

All tools should be kept clean. Rubbing alcohol and cotton balls are ideal for cleaning cutting blades, before, during and after the job. This helps prevent disease transmission from plant to plant and you can use it as first aid on your own cuts, scratches, and punctures! (On that note, a good pair of leather gloves are necessary with long sleeves or separate pair of sleeves to protect our arms.)

Before starting the job, apply a little light oil (such as 3-in-1 oil) to each tool's moving parts and make sure they operate without resistance. Sharpen each blade with a small diamond file (available at garden centers), trying as much as possible to match the original bevel of the blade. When you're actually pruning, swipe the file over the blade a few times every 100 cuts or so to keep it sharp. If you notice that your pruners are crushing the stems and/or leaving a tail, it's past time to sharpen them!

To minimize damage to the cane, keep this rule in mind: the sharp blade should always face the part of the plant that will be left. This will minimize the crushing of the cane or stem as it will be the part that is discarded. This rule also works for preparing stems for arranging or putting into a vase.

January and February are excellent months for planting new roses in the Temecula Valley and environs. Still, one can usually wait until March to plant and still expect the roots to form relationships with beneficial soil fungi and become showstoppers as early as May, well ahead of the summer heat. Potted rose bushes will be optimal for these late plantings.

For now, be thinking about adding one or two new roses to your garden in spring. Roses offered for sale are rated by quality. You want only #1 roses – they are the surest guarantee of success, with all horticultural methods employed to provide satisfaction – don't waste your time and money on anything lower.

Higher quality plants have a higher chance of success, require less effort, and acclimate faster. Also, the cost of any rose is a very small fraction of what you will eventually invest in that plant over the years in water, fertilizer, pest control, and effort, so why not start with a first-quality plant?

Roses may come to you "bare root," potted, or packaged. Bare root plants are just that, usually packed in wood chips to keep the roots damp and viable. They are slower to thrive and it is best to get them early and planted immediately so they have the maximum amount of time to become established. (When you acquire a bare root rose, be sure to soak its roots in water for 24 hours, then plant promptly.)

Packaged roses are the slowest to thrive as they have been drastically root pruned to fit into the plastic sleeves. Potted roses make the quickest and most successful transition to the garden, but they also tend to be more expensive and not as plentiful in selection, and I've detected that many nurseries will pot up bare root plants immediately upon arrival to stores so inspect those selections. But as I said, the initial cost will pale against what you put into the plant in the years to come.

Rose plants are beginning to be stocked at nurseries and retailers now. You might find some good values. There are many sources: local nurseries and reputable online retailers who specialize in roses. New stock will begin appearing in nurseries this month, and online suppliers usually ship in mid-January. (Does that tell you anything?) But be sure to shop early for the best selection – and if you have access to it, be sure to consult your American Rose Society Buyer's Guide.

As I said earlier, I will provide guidance on that all-important annual pruning in the February column. Also, check local newspapers and nursery websites for schedules of hands-on pruning classes at different locations.

Please bring clean, sharp, by-pass pruners in good working condition, and be prepared to learn and to lend a hand pruning under experienced direction. This will be a great opportunity to get your questions answered, hone your skills, and boost your confidence.

Visit www.temeculavalleyrosesociety.org for information on future programs and events in the garden. And spread the joy of roses!

 

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