Hoping for more rose blooms in June?

This spring has been unusual for the area with more than normal rainfall and irregular temperatures. I have noticed more fungal infections in gardens, such as powdery mildew and even black spot. It is best to start a managed treatment as soon as you notice these infections in your garden. For organic gardeners, these infections cause frustration because there are few readily available organic products to treat them. If the infection is difficult to control, it may be necessary to use an integrated organic/chemical management program. I don’t subscribe to the use of chemicals except as a last resort to keep infections at a minimum. Use a product which addresses only the specific infection you are experiencing.

If you did your major pruning late January to mid-March, you’re probably experiencing waning blooms with fading aged blossoms or petal-less sepals. It’s time to stimulate the next cycle of blooms! To do that, be a little more aggressive than simple deadheading: Do a minor pruning as you would when cutting a bloom for exhibition. If the cane (stem) supporting a bloom is the size of a pencil or larger, it will support another large bloom. It is possible and okay to leave a cane-on-cane in this case. Be sure to leave a minimum of three to four leaf buds on the stem above the cane-on-cane union. Remove any vegetation growing into the interior of the bush. Most of this is “terminal growth” anyway which won’t produce a blossom but is taking up energy that could be used to produce more blooms; removing these interior branches also allows better air circulation through the center of the plant. This helps to prevent diseases, especially from molds and other fungi.

Warm to hot weather will soon be here. Make sure that your water delivery system is in good working order and providing enough water to each plant. Each plant requires five to ten gallons of water per week. Your plants can tell you when they’re getting thirsty long before then actually wilt - learn to pay close attention to their color and signs that they don’t have the substance they should. Also, in an effort to conserve water, it is a good idea to check the moisture content of the top couple inches of the soil. If it is moist it probably is ok. (Keep in mind that a good slow deep watering is better than frequent shallow one.) Roses’ root zone is 8 - 12” deep, and drip delivery systems provide water in a better pattern than other systems. The pattern is like a funnel turned upside down, delivering water to a larger area in the root zone

There is still time to top dress the garden with composted mulch. A three- to four-inch layer of composted mulch will definitely conserve moisture and prevent stressing of plants and keep a more regulated soil temperature. It will help conserve water and save you money. Also, apply a good granular organic fertilizer that is slightly higher in phosphate than in nitrogen - that is, the first number on the label (nitrogen) is smaller than the second number (phosphorus). This encourages the plant to put more resources into strong roots. Remember: Never feed a dry or water-stressed plant! Always water it thoroughly the day before feeding. Two weeks later, apply diluted fish emulsion. The nutrition can be absorbed by the leaves too, so feel free to pour the liquid down through the center of the plant: at least 1 gallon for hybrid teas and other tall rose varieties and half gallon for smaller varieties. Your roses should give you another flush of blooms in June with this method.

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